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Sea caves and jungle vines, elephants and monkeys, await in "The Land of Smiles"

An illustrated itinerary of one of our many travel adventures for gay men, lesbians, and friends.

This information supplements our
shorter Overview of Honah Lee.

The Kingdom of Thailand attracts more visitors than any other country in Southeast Asia and for good reasons: breathtaking natural beauty, awe inspiring temples, gracious hospitality, delicious cuisine and Bangkok’s famous nightlife. Our Alyson Adventures tour goes beyond the well-traveled roads and famous sites to the heart of Thailand offering a chance to experience this beautiful land in a personal and hopefully profound way. From the tribal villages to a secluded lake and rainforest, from a temple deep in a cave to the cave-studded islands off Phuket, join a small gay group as we travel to four remarkably different corners of this friendly and vibrant region.

Pre-tour in Laos
We invite you to join our pre-tour visit to Laos, including two nights in the ancient capital of Luang Prabang, and two nights on a trek to remote mountain villages hidden amidst the seemingly endless hills of the Mekong River valley. Laos is an undiscovered beauty and offers our group a depth and insight into primitive living hardly ever seen in world travel today. Our exact itinerary, and the villages we will visit will be decided closer to our departure date, but the following will give you an idea of a typical trek.

Once we have left the city behind and begin our hike, the jungle envelops us. Laotian countryside varies from fields to forests, from rugged to sublime. The abundance of life and natural beauty along the misty trail is amazing and the mountains are spectacular scenery, but it's the inhabitants of these hills who make these days so unique. Over the past centuries, along with the ethnic Laotians, tribes from neighboring countries have settled in the hills and valleys of the Mekong valley. Most came as refugees from nearby countries in times of political turmoil. Our home for the next two days will be in small, semi-nomadic villages, with no electricity or running water -- no, not even television! – as each tribe continues simple subsistence living, maintaining its own distinctive customs, costumes, and cultures.

Awake the next morning in your bamboo hut, to the sound of a pig grunting below you. Many village homes are set on stilts, both to capture the cool mountain air, and to provide shelter for the animals underneath. Playtime for kids means rolling a hoop outdoors, not pushing buttons on a video game. Here, we have discovered a truly enchanting world, a real Shangri-La, where time seems frozen. Bedtime comes early in the village, but first we admire a sky bursting with stars.

After another day of trekking, past ever-changing scenery, we will return to the city of Luang Prabang. We now have the comforts of civilization but we may still feel frozen in time. Luang Prabang is ancient and beautiful city, a dazzling mix of temple roofs, crumbling French provincial architecture surrounded by mountains and at the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers. We will explore and relax in the World Heritage City for two nights.

1: City of Angels

The main tour starts in Bangkok at 6:00 p.m. with a reception and orientation, where you'll get acquainted with others in the group. Then, after settling into our comfortable hotel, we indulge in one of Thai culture's passionate pursuits, the art of fine cuisine, at our welcome dinner.

Later in the evening, a group may head out to Bangkok's premiere gay district, along Silom and Surawong roads. The gay venues change frequently, but one of the current favorites is DJ Station, which draws a busy international mix, with a good disco floor and an entertaining drag show. The gimmick at Telephone Bar is that you can phone over to the next table if you feel so inclined, though it may be easier just to walk over and say Sawasdee Khrup. Karaoke is popular in Thailand, notably at Pharoah's (with good food at Sphinx, adjacent).

Early arrivals can simply relax at the hotel, or do some independent sightseeing. Interesting options include the National Museum, notable for its colorful Thai architecture, displays ceramics, jewelry, and other artifacts dating back to Neolithic times. The elegant 81-room Vimanmek Mansion ("Castle in the Clouds"), a stately teakwood palace in Bangkok offers a fascinating window into Thailand's past.

Traffic can be slow in Bangkok: Use the river ferries, and the new rapid transit, whenever they're going your way. And if you do get stuck in a traffic jam while taking a cab or tuk-tuk, be grateful for one thing: Elephants have been banned from the streets of Bangkok since 1995.

2: Venice of the East

We start our day at one of Southeast Asia's most spectacular sights: The Grand Palace set amidst the old Royal City. Construction of the Palace began in 1782, and succeeding monarchs added and enlarged it, each in a new but related style, with elements of European and Renaissance architecture modifying the original Thai designs. The jewel-encrusted spires, mirror tiles, and gold-leafed walls glitter in the morning sun, as we explore what seems like a never-ending succession of monuments, each more breathtaking than the last. Careful landscaping adds to the fairy-tale atmosphere.

Also here in the Royal City we'll visit the remarkable Wat Pra Keo, (Temple of the Emerald Buddha). The small Buddha on display here is Thailand's most venerated image. The temple constructed to display it, and the statues of mythological animals surrounding it, attest to the Emerald Buddha's importance. We will also walk past Wat Pho, home of Thailand's largest reclining Buddha, then take a boat across the Chao Phraya River to Wat Arun. Lunch will be at an elegant restaurant overlooking the bustling river.

After lunch we're back on the river in a colorfully festooned long tail boat, to see another side of Bangkok. Twenty minutes from the center of town, we pass homes built on stilts, the river serving as driveway, highway, and bathtub. Canals (klongs) and waterways once laced Bangkok, creating such a watery atmosphere that Europeans called it the "Venice of the East". Many of the canals have been filled in, but this afternoon we'll take full advantage of the Chao Phraya River and its narrow canals. Teeming with boats of all sizes, the Chao Phraya is wide enough to accommodate them all, and it remains the major traffic artery for this city.

During our canal ride, we'll pass the Royal Barges Shed, along a canal on the outskirts of town. Each of these ornately decorated longboats is designed around a mythical character. Some are of royal origin; others were once war vessels. Today, the Royal Barges are used only on major occasions of state. The largest -- half the length of a football field, and requiring a crew of 55 -- has a prow in the shape of a giant swan.

A savory Thai dinner is followed by a Thai cultural show, showcasing Thai music and dance. The female performers in our show are likely to be real women, but transvestites (known as katoeys) are well accepted in Thailand. (Parinya Kiatbusaba, a champion Thai kick-boxer who is also a katoey, won himself some extra attention when he leaned over and kissed an opponent he had just defeated.)

If you're catching up on jet lag and want to experience the local gay scene, you can get some background at a website that we created to give a more thorough look at Thai culture, www.gay-thailand.net.

3: Ancient and Modern Splendors

We start the day in Bangkok with a visit to the Jim Thompson House. After World War II, Jim Thompson, an American operative settled in Thailand, where he fell in love with the culture and arts of what was then considered an exotic Southeast Asian country. Thompson developed one of the world's best collections of Thai sculptures, then went on to re-invigorate the country's nearly defunct silk business. Captivated by the old-style teak homes of Thailand, he created his own home in Bangkok, inspired by the traditional homes and using recycled teak walls from houses he had purchased, but adding his own architectural flourishes.

In the spring of 1967, Thompson went for a brief vacation in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. On Easter Sunday he went out by himself for a hike in the jungle -- and was never seen again. Thompson was a prominent, well-connected figure, and search parties quickly spread out through the area. Not even a scrap of clothing was ever found. Decades later, theories abound but no one has found a tangible clue to the fate of Thailand's most famous American. Jim Thompson's home, however, remains in downtown Bangkok, alongside a klong, filled with the artwork that he collected.

Today's main attraction will be to venture up the Chao Phraya River valley to Ayutthaya, the kingdom's ancient capital, where the ruins of massive temples and Buddhist statues reveal the ancient foundation of this deeply spiritual culture. We will have lunch at a riverside restaurant in Ayuttaya, and also visit the Bang Pa-In Palace.

Dinner will be on your own this evening. Thai's don't think in terms of three daily meals; they're more likely to eat small amounts of food throughout the day. The ubiquitous food vendors serve this appetite, and you can buy freshly-cooked cuisine wherever there are people.

4: Our Own Private Eden

From Bangkok we fly south, to explore the lushness of Thailand's rainforests. Our plane lands in Surat Thani, then we transfer by van and by boat to Khao Sok National Park, in the midst of southern Thailand's largest forest. Our exact itinerary at Khao Sok will depend on the weather and other considerations, but the following gives an example of the type of experience we will share in the lakes and trees of the rainforest.

Imagine the clear waters of a giant lake sprawling out amongst the hills, the watery arms and inlets reaching in and out amongst lush forests and limestone cliffs. This rock is known as karst, a limestone formed millions of years ago when, geologists believe, large sections of Southeast Asia were a vast coral reef. As layer upon layer of shells, fish skeletons, and coral accumulated, the layers compacted into rock. The earth's tectonic plates shifted, these layers were thrust up, and a process of erosion began. Irregularities within the limestone led to the fantastic patterns we see today: a less-dense vein eroded first, then water passing through that enlarged the passage, creating a honeycomb of caves within the rock.

Our homes for the next three nights are in unique and idyllic settings. We start with two nights in bamboo huts set on rafts, floating near the shores of a pristine lake. There's time on arrival for a short boat ride and hike into the forest, where we brush aside giant palm leaves as we hike under an emerald canopy of giant fig, aromatic hardwood trees and thick vines. Mist rainbows fill the air.

Khao Sok National Park is home to some 48 species of mammals. In the treetops, monkeys play jungle gym. We're likely to spot a variety of chattering monkeys here, as well as colorful birds. Elephants, tigers, porcupines, gibbons, and the world's largest cat, the striped phantom, inhabit the forest. We may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one but they've all learned to avoid humans: Occasional footprints may be the only evidence we see of them. Khao Sok is also home to Rafflesia, the world's largest flowering plant. This rare plant grows only in this park and one other spot in the world.

Back at the raft houses, we'll drift on the lake in tubes as the sunset paints the clouds that hover over the cliffs. Finally, fall asleep to a symphony of birdsongs.

5-6: A Tunnel into the Cliffs

We’ll awake to a chorus of gibbon calls, floating across the water. If we see these small apes at all today, it will only be from afar, but their territorial songs carry for miles. No morning showers here. Just dive into the warm lake waters for a swim!

Today's adventure takes us well into the wilderness. Lunch today may come wrapped in banana leaves as there will be no trash cans where we're going, and no need for any. Equipped with lunches and flashlights, we travel across Raja Praba Lake by boat, then hike to a cliff where a small stream disappears into the rock. For nearly an hour, we splash the tortuous route of the widening stream and spelunk through caves. Curtains of white stalactites glisten when we shine our flashlights onto the wall. A family of bats, hanging upside down from the cave ceiling, silently watches our passage. At first, the cave is wide and the water shallow. But now it cuts sharply around a corner, pitching us into complete darkness except for the illumination of our flashlights. The cave narrows, the walls so close you can straddle each side as you ease your way above a river that now swirls below you, before finally dropping into it and being swept along. Sorry, no photos were possible in the cave! But today's adventure is one that will remain vivid in your mind for years to come.

After two nights in our floating bamboo huts, our small boat pulls away from the rafts, and we'll miss this quiet Arcadia on the water. But we can still enjoy the beauty of Khao Sok National Park as we cross the lake. A strange bird soars overhead: it's the prehistoric hornbill, looking like a bird-of-paradise flower that's taken flight. We will spend our last night in Khao Sok National Park in a tree house, where you can fall asleep to the sounds of the rainforest.

7: Back to the City

We depart from the Park today and drive to Patong Bay on the island of Phuket, on the Andaman Sea. After we check into the hotel, we'll have time to relax on Patong Beach. Although shopping is hardly an adventure activity there’s plenty of worthwhile options to explore. Custom-tailored suits are very reasonably priced and there are also good buys on emeralds, sapphires, and other gemstones mined in Thailand. On the other hand, if an imitation is what you're looking for, stop at The Artist's Studio. Here, talented artists paint full-size reproductions of works by Warhol, Picasso, Chagall, and anyone else you can think of. Take your pick and carry (or have shipped) home a Dali reproduction, or an original work, for as little as a hundred dollars

The long, sandy crescent of Patong Beach, colorfully arrayed with rows of umbrellas, draws both visitors looking only for sun and sand, and also those want a sunny daytime spot as they wait for the nightclubs to pick up. Patong has more gay clubs than any city in Thailand except Bangkok and Pattaya, and at some point you'll want to visit both the beach and the gay club district.

Dinner is on a balmy terrace air-conditioned by ocean breezes, with palm trees embellishing the skyline. Then home to bed -- or off to check out the gay nightlife. And yes, the two or three blocks of Patong Beach closest to the water were inundated by the recent tsunami, but the town is now completely rebuilt, and the residents of Phuket welcome any visitors who can help them rebuild their economy.

8: The Hongs of Phang Nga Bay

The next day we go sea-kayaking in the daylight and moonlight of Phang Nga Bay. Here we'll explore an aquatic landscape of soaring limestone islands, riddled by a labyrinth of winding tunnels and sea caves adorned with snaggle-toothed stalactites.

Interesting and quite surreal are the hongs, hidden lagoons or lakes carved in the center of an island. The hongs were created when rainwater accumulated in the middle of an island and slowly leached through, dissolving a bit of rock. At the same time, wave action carved tunnels into the island at sea level. When the two met, erosion picked up pace, gradually carving out a secret, watery world, usually accessibly only by kayak or canoe. Timing our entrance and exit with the tides, we enter a hong through the tunnel that offers its only access.

Our vessel is a kayak/canoe hybrid, roughly the shape of a canoe, but using the double-paddle of a kayak. Procedures vary year to year. You may be able to paddle yourself, if you wish. Other times, because of the tight passageways, or to avoid damage to the environment, you may be asked to let a friendly young guide into the canoe-kayak with you to handle the paddling. Either way, we trust you'll enjoy the ride.

And while the isolation from the modern world is sublime, we are hardly alone. More than 600 species of exotic plant life surround us. So do 200 species of birds, each flaunting a brilliant array of tropical colors, such as the kingfisher, sporting burnt-orange and sky-blue colors as it perches intently on a branch.

Tropical rainforests line the beaches that we pass on our way to the islands. If we pass closely enough, our guide will point out the so-called James Bond Island, where a sheer limestone tower, shooting up from the water, played a central role in the 1974 film, The Man with the Golden Gun. In the film, Roger Moore as 007 blows up the rock formation. In reality, it still stands, but erosion caused by waves lapping at the tower's base will cause it to topple before too many more years pass.

9: A Colorful World Under the Waves

Phuket offers such a wide range of activities that our group may head in different directions today and tomorrow. We've lined up some options for those interested; it's also simple to make arrangements on your own.

Options include snorkeling and SCUBA diving. The clear waters around Phuket are some of the world's premier snorkeling and diving locations, filled with colorful coral and fish. Our actual snorkeling and diving destination will be determined by the weather and the number of participants. One possibility is the magnificent tropical island of Ko Phi Phi Don, which has fallen victim to its own beauty. The extra attention drawn by the Leonardo di Caprio film, The Beach, has drawn crowds but you can still escape if you know where to go. The smaller island of this Phi Phi Island duo, Ko Phi Phi Leh, continues to qualify it as one of the most beautiful islands in the world.

We will arrange for scuba diving for both certified divers and those who want to try their hand at this underwater sport. (Bring your PADI or NAUI certification card if you are certified and expect to dive.) The deeper waters teem with bat fish, manta rays and whale sharks, the largest known fish species. Several sites are protected by National Marine Park status.

10: Island Dreams

Our last full day on Phuket is free for you to relax or pursue a favorite activity. If there is enough interest, we can arrange a group excursion to visit sites such as the Butterfly Farm and Aquarium. The jungles and seas around Phuket are full of colorful life, but there are many spectacular creatures that you're unlikely to see in the course of a 4-day visit. The open aviary here, along with Phuket’s best aquarium, provide a way to see more of this variety.

The Gibbon Rehabilitation Project at Khao Phra Taew National Park, is high on our recommended list.

The wild gibbons, whose calls haunted us in Khao Sok National Park, are today fighting for their lives. Their wilderness habitat is shrinking, and poachers regularly seize gibbons from their natural environment to be displayed at bars and roadside cafes. This highly successful Gibbon Rehabilitation Project teaches these graceful apes to live in the wilderness and enables them to return to their tree-swinging natural habitat. Alyson Adventures has a special interest in this stop: We are the proud adoptive parents of Smiley, one of the gibbons rescued, and currently in the rehabilitation program. You won't get to meet Smiley though: he was released onto Ko Thong island, in Phang Nga Bay, under the GRP's "assisted living" program in which his progress is monitored as he re-adapts to a wilderness lifestyl

Or you can just enjoy Patong Beach, a short walk from our hotel. That long, palm-fringed beach will draw those who prefer to relax as the trip draws to a close..

 

11: Departure Day

Our trip ends on the island of Phuket. Stay a few more days, if your schedule permits, or catch a short flight to Bangkok and then your connecting flight home. (If you have an early morning departure from Bangkok, you may need to spend a night in Bangkok and fly out one day later.) One thing you’ll learn is that the shared activities of a trip such as this will create lasting friendships. Many of us will see one another again.

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