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Trip Overview Swim with dolphins, explore glacier caves, paddle through foaming whitewater |
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An illustrated itinerary of one of our many travel adventures for gay men, lesbians, and friends. This information supplements our
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1: Sunny Nelson We begin in cheerful Nelson, at the northern tip of the South Island. This pleasant fishing port and crafts community gets more sunlight than any other spot in New Zealand, and offers a warm introduction to local hospitality during our two-night stay.
Who will be there? With our emphasis on active vacations and the outdoors, Alyson Adventures' trips draw people who are energetic and outgoing, who enjoy interacting with life and with each other. The majority of people on a typical trip are traveling alone but there are usually several couples as well. Single travelers don't need to pay a single supplement as we'll match you with a roommate if you'd like the double-occupancy price. A majority of the group will most likely fall in the 30-to-55 age range but there will almost certainly be some who are older and quite possibly a few in their twenties.
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2: Island-Hopping In a Kayak The next morning, we head for nearby Abel Tasman National Park. No one who visits this breathtaking park forgets the scenery that awaits. We've planned a day of sea-kayaking in the clear waters of Tasman Bay.
Today's kayaking is included in the trip price and most of the group will be out on the water. But the hiking trails of Abel Tasman also are spectacular, winding through the native beech forests to rock canyons and picturesque waterfalls. Avid hikers have the option of choosing this activity instead and will have many appealing trails to choose from.
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3: Wine Country Blenheim (pronounced "blennum") lies in the heart of New Zealand's famed Marlborough wine country. Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, one of the country's top wines, comes from here, as do many others. We'll stop at a Marlborough winery for a wine-tasting and a vineyard tour. Afterwards, we’ll have lunch at a beautifully-sited restaurant fronting the South Pacific further down the east coast at a hamlet called Kekerengu. A few acres of sheep -- well, actually more than a few acres -- and we reach the scenic peninsula of Kaikoura. The name Kaikoura means "eat crayfish". That is, indeed, high on our agenda. This seaside town is justly famous for the spiny lobsters known locally as crayfish. But the real draw for us is the abundance of sea mammals.
A two-hour hike along the jagged peninsula takes us past a seal colony, along the rocky coast, through sea caves, then back along the clifftop. (This hike cannot be done at high tide, so if tidal times are wrong today, we'll try the next day.) Back in town, there's plenty more to explore. Visit Kaikoura's best-known land site, the Fyffe House. Sitting on a stack of whale bones, it provides a glimpse of a long-past era when harpoonists balanced in frail boats as they hunted for whales. And then... if you're up to it: Kaikoura's best! Try a tasty dinner of crayfish at one of Kaikoura's best seafood restaurants.
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4: Acrobats Of The Sea Most visitors to Kaikoura are content to admire the sea life from the dry deck of a boat. Not us! We'll put on wetsuits, take a short boat ride into the bay, and listen to some background about the dusky dolphins that call this water their home. And then, we snorkel with the dolphins.
Those who'd rather stay on the boat can sip hot chocolate as they watch a great performance by the acrobats of the sea - and their new playmates. Dusky dolphins are the most playful of all dolphin species. Scientists don't yet understand why they love to skip and somersault through the air, but that doesn't stop the show.
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5: Christchurch - The Garden City Touring south, we arrive in Christchurch, the South Island's largest city, built of Anglican dreams and determination. Laid-out on a simple grid pattern around a central cathedral, Christchurch will surprise with its English gardens, lively cafe scene, neo-gothic architecture, and vibrant arts scene. Our hotel is in the center of the excitement, a block behind the Cathedral, convenient to all downtown sights, shopping, nightlife, and Hagley Park, a sprawling expanse of green that dominates the western edge of downtown and contains the perfectly manicured botanic gardens. Just enjoying the scents of a hundred varieties of roses could fill a sweet hour. And then there are the trees, which swiftly grow to immense size in this temperate climate: giant gum (eucalyptus), redwood, sequoia, even a dawn redwood, but the Chilean monkey puzzle tree wows us the most. We'll stay here in the garden city for two nights allowing us time to immerse ourselves in the city center while still allowing time to bike or hike up in the Port Hills or down by the beach. This evening we'll participate in a Maori cultural exchange, enjoy a tasty buffet of New Zealand cuisine, then have a tour through the Willowbank wildlife reserve. This is an opportunity to see some of New Zealand's distinctive wildlife, most especially that elusive nocturnal bird: the Kiwi. Later in the evening, you’ll have a chance to get out on the town and mingle with the natives.
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6: Of Wizards, Volcanoes, and Antarctica Expeditions! As the second largest city in New Zealand, Christchurch has much to offer. There are great restaurants, cafes, galleries, museums, shopping and the arts. But as with the rest of New Zealand, enjoying the beauty of nature is still a favorite pastime. You can take a tour wandering through private gardens and estates or hire a punt and be guided along the serpentine Avon River, watching for trout and black swans as you wend through the main park and downtown. To be more active, take the Christchurch Gondola 945 meters up the side of a collapsed volcano to the summit of Mount Cavendish which offers expansive vistas of the inside of the remaining volcano, the city below, and of the Southern Alps in the distance across the Canterbury Plains. You can bike or hike along the top of the ridge or bike along a circuitous route back to the bottom of Mount Cavendish, even heading all the way to the hotel if you like. At 1 PM on most Fridays the city's most vocal advocate usually arrives in his push-me-pull-me VW bug in front of the Cathedral, where he dons his wizard hat and gown, and then pontificates on current events, chastises hecklers, and riles up the crowds that come to watch this legend. Due to its proximity to Antarctica, Christchurch serves as the headquarters of the New Zealand and United States Antarctic Programs. It's still an eight-hour flight to Antarctica, but you can learn more about the coldest and driest continent and man's exploration of the south pole by visiting the International Antarctica Centre, where, among other things, you can experience the chills of an Antarctic snowstorm - parkas are provided! There is also an excellent exhibit on Antarctic exploration at the Canterbury Museum.
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7: Across the Southern Alps! Yes, New Zealand does have Alps: In fact, New Zealand's Southern Alps serve as the spine of the southern island, jutting-up just inland along the West Coast, from Nelson in the north to the southern tip of the island. The Alps cause a dramatic change in the climate, creating temperate rainforests on the West Coast, yet hot and dry plains in the east. Today we leave the sheep behind (don't worry -- we'll see them again) as we cross the Southern Alps by way of dramatic Arthur's Pass. We'll have several stops along the way to explore this new terrain: forests of beech, rocky karst landscapes, vistas of mountain valleys and peaks, and at the end of the day, the wild west coastline of the Tasman Sea. Shortly after our first mountain pass, we will have a short stop at Castle Hill Rocks. Teetering over lush green grass are tall, short, huge, and squat boulders and cliffs of limestone, which, weathered by erosion, create magical shapes, with some even looking like castles. Some may want to hike here while others head further up the road to Cave Stream Reserve to get wet in the wonders of a cave carved through the limestone, creating it's own interesting shapes and thrills. Afterwards we'll stop at Arthur's Pass Village for an enjoyable 45-minute hike up a switchback trail, past rocky ravines and through Mountain Beech forest, to the spectacular 131-meter Devil's Punchbowl Waterfall. Then it's a steep (16%!) grade down the Alps to the Tasman Sea and following the coast southward to the old mining and port town of Hokitika. Originally settled during the gold rush of the 1860s, Hokitika has undergone several transformations since those heady days. Today, one of the biggest local industries is carving jade (locally known as greenstone). You can watch the artisans at work in several shops. Another workshop produces handcrafted gold jewelry from the small nuggets that are still found locally. We'll stop for an hour as this is our best New Zealand souvenir shopping stop. If there was ever any doubt that the South Island is lightly inhabited, these roads prove it. Even on the major west-coast road, traffic is so light that most bridges can only handle cars in one direction at a time -- and still there's never a wait. (Even more interesting is one bridge -- still on the main road -- where a one-lane bridge handles not only car traffic from both directions, but also a railroad track!). We arrive in the tiny village of Franz Joseph Glacier, at the base of the largest of these rivers of ice. Tonight or tomorrow night, we can take a quiet walk that takes us through moss-covered forest, just a short distance from our hotel. After dinner, the trail sparkles with that distinctive New Zealand creature, the glow worm. Then, away from the trees and the lights of the city, the jeweled sky comes alive, and we gaze up at the glow worms of the Milky Way, and the four corners of the Southern Cross.
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8: Glacier World At the glacial terminus, a steady torrent of water gushes from a sub-surface river. A picturesque 45-minute hike, against a glistening mountain backdrop, takes us to the edge of the ice. There, we fit on crampons, pick up a pointed walking stick, and begin exploring an icy world on our glacier hike.
From a distance, the glaciers simply look like large, two-dimensional sheets of ice. Close up, they become an eerie ice world, full of tunnels disappearing into the glacier, serpentine rivers of chilled water, fantastic ice structures, and yawning crevasses. Occasional creaks and crunches remind us that as the glacier moves -- some of the world’s fastest, at speeds of up to 2 or 3 feet a day -- new crevasses and formations continually appear and disappear. Our experienced local guides swing their ice axes to cut steps in the rock, and guide us to routes where we can see the many faces of the glacier. Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers are among the few spots in the world where a glacier advances to a temperate rainforest. After a day on the glacier, those who want to explore the green world below can choose from several short hikes.
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9: A Mountain Jewel Even if you aren't normally an early riser, this is a great morning to get up early and go for a hike to take in the grandeur of this unique setting. After breakfast, we leave the glaciers, and drive down the west coast, across Haast Pass and into Wanaka, with stops enroute to see primordial swamps and forests, waterfalls, and vistas of huge glacially-formed lakes, including Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. We spend three nights in the quiet mountain village of Wanaka, enjoying a wealth of activities. Perched on Lake Wanaka, with Mount Aspiring National Park rising behind it, Wanaka offers sports on land, sea, and in the air. We'll arrive in time for a quick hike above our hotel to view the layout of the town, then we’ll settle in for one of Andy and Graeme’s famous BBQ dinners. Afterwards, take a walk along the lakefront and through the quaint downtown, stopping at Kai Waka Pai or Cafe Paradiso for a nightcap.
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10: Jump, Slide, Rappel: The Art of Canyoning What will be your favorite activity on Wild Kiwi? Many travelers give that title to a sport you may never have heard of: Canyoning (sometimes known in North America as canyoneering). Don a wetsuit, then hike down to a crystal stream that over the millennia has carved its way deep into the bedrock. Now, you'll simply follow this stream and canyon as they wind through the rocks and trees. First obstacle: The stream drops fifteen feet, through a narrow trough, into a pool of water below. There's no obvious way to get down until your instructor demonstrates. It's quite simple: sit at the top, and just slide down.
Those are the three basic canyoning techniques: slide, rappel, jump. Soon you've got the hang of them -- or so you think. But in the natural environment of the canyon, every situation offers its own peculiarities. The next water slide looks to be about 25 feet, and just about straight down. No problem, it's a deep pool of water, explains your guide, and you soon discover he's right. Working along the edge of the canyon, you spot a giant boulder lodged between the canyon walls ahead. A rope runs from your wall to the other side. Moments later, securely clipped to a carabiner, you're sliding along the rope, 100 feet of air gaping below you, and onto the boulder. Hot tea is served on the boulder, but only half the group is able to relax and enjoy it -- the others are firmly gripping the safety rope.
If you're not participating in canyoning, you can sign up for one of many other activities offered. Biking, wine tours, or even a full day of paragliding lessons on Mt. Iron, overlooking the lake, at a site known for its steady winds. New designs have made it easier to learn this once-dangerous sport. Your first glides will be short distances, from the bottom of the hill to a grassy paddock. Soon, as your instructor communicates through a radio in your helmet, you'll increase the distances. By the end of the day, you could easily find yourself flying solo, right from the summit.
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11: Exploring the wonders of Wanaka Today is a free day to allow you to choose your activity and enjoy more of this beautiful part of New Zealand. While biking, hiking, lake kayaking, and even rock climbing are all on offer, many clients choose to have some down time today to enjoy our wonderful lodge, get a massage, and remind themselves that this is, after all, a vacation. A few might catch the early shuttle up the Matukituki River valley to enjoy a hike to the stunning Rob Roy Glacier, while others might try for a 45-minute flight to spectacular Milford Sound, complete with a boat ride through the Sound (you can make another try when we're in Queenstown if weather today doesn't allow a flight). An option for today is a unique eco-rafting experience, one that is less challenging than our rafting option in a few days in Queenstown. Spend four hours in a rubber raft with local legend Lewis, experiencing a bit of everything: birdwatching, brewing herbal tea from leaves we've just picked, listening to the history of New Zealand, then shooting a few Class-II and (briefly) Class-III rapids.
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12: A Long Rubber Band Early risers watch a sunrise illuminating the mountains of Mount Aspiring National Park before enjoying our last breakfast in Wanaka. Today's drive across historic Cadrona Pass brings us to a stunning perch on the Crown Range Saddle high above the Kawarau River valley overlooking Lake Wakatipu. Once we've descended from the Crown Range Saddle, we'll swing down the Kawarau River to our next adrenaline-rush activity: the most anticipated and talked-about Wild Kiwi event and also the briefest. The bungy jump lasts perhaps 30 seconds from the heart-stopping moment you step into thin air, until you've stopped bobbing up and down sufficiently to be hauled into the pick-up raft. But the adrenaline will keep pumping for hours.
What's your style? A graceful swan dive is the classic exit. A camera captures the critical moment, and just within our group, we see quite a range. One steps off upright, his hands pressed in front of him as if in prayer; another scrunches up in sheer terror. Our 64-year-old steps off as nonchalantly as if going out to buy a loaf of bread. Two guys admit to having been firmly instructed by their mothers not to jump: one does it anyway; the other obeys Mom. (Our advice for future travelers: Don't tell Mom your plans until after the trip. That way, you can have fun without being disobedient.)
Our day is not yet over! Following the rivers out of the mountains, we pass into the acclaimed adventure capital of the Southern Hemisphere, Queenstown, our home for the next three nights. We've got several activities scheduled in Queenstown, but you have virtually unlimited options that you can try instead during our two and a half days here. If you're a whitewater fan, this afternoon is a good time for whitewater rafting on Class-III and IV rapids. Based on river conditions and water levels, we'll head for one of two nearby rivers. The wild and untamed Shotover River takes us through six rapids, then we raft through 500 feet of darkness as we pass through the Oxenbridge Tunnel, an historic diversion tunnel built by goldminers. Or we'll raft the Kawarau, the largest commercially rafted river in New Zealand. Here we pass under the Chard vineyards, and through four sets of rapids. We'll paddle under the bungee jumpers on the Kawarau bridge, culminating in the unforgettable Dog Leg Rapids. On the Kawarau, there are sometimes opportunities for cliff jumping, and to swim through smaller rapids. Back in town, you'll also want to stroll onto the peninsula and the Queenstown Garden. And this evening, you'll discover that Queenstown's highlights extend into the culinary realm, as well.
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13: Through Whitewater Without a Raft? This morning is on your own to explore Queenstown. A good introduction to the area is the gondola ride to the top of Bob's Peak, 1400 feet above town. Sip a drink at the restaurant as you watch bungy jumpers hurl themselves from The Ledge, a precarious platform jutting into space, or paragliders sail above the lake. Bungy jumping started in Queenstown, and every year some nut in Queenstown comes up with a new adrenaline sport. A few of these we're happy to skip. (If you want to roll down the mountain inside a giant inflatable ball, please reserve it yourself.) But there's one that we really like, which we suggest for this afternoon: Riversurfing. Never heard of it? Okay, imagine yourself whitewater rafting, with an enormous wave coming up. Now imagine yourself in the same spot, but without the raft. There -- you've got the general idea. Riversurfing has one thing in common with bungy jumping: The first time you hear about it, you think somebody's pulling your leg. But they're not. Armed with a meter-long boogie board, short fins, helmet, and 45 minutes of instruction, you'll hop into the Kawarau River. For a while, you flow placidly along, admiring the rugged cliffs that tower above you. For variety, try riding your boogieboard like a horse; the balance takes a bit of practice, but soon you'll feel like a wet John Wayne.
Another stretch of calm water, then you see the Class-III rapids ahead. Now the adrenaline starts to flow! Keep left, the guide motions. Before you know it, you've gotten through the churning whitewater. Still not hard. Your instructor motions you to the side, and explains: Try it again, but this time, catch the wave and surf it! A backward eddy carries you upstream to the rapids, and you stand on a rock, then plunge in and try again. Aim 45 degrees upstream, catch the eddy behind that rock, paddle like hell to the rapids, and then catch the wave! On your second try, you succeed, and ride the wave for perhaps five seconds, foam swirling past as you surf in place. More scenic flatwater. A bridge appears ahead -- something seems to be falling from it -- hey, it's the bridge where you bungee-jumped a couple of days ago! You paddle over to the side and watch a jumper. And then . . . here come the Class-IV rapids. Your guide motions you ashore, and from a nearby bluff, you preview what's to come. See that wave there, he says, motioning to a pile of water that would seem able to sink the Titanic. That's the one you need to watch. Actually, it would be hard to miss. Minutes later, you're in it, trying to remember your instructions. Attack that wave. Weight the board, and dive down into it. You do your best, but the monster simply slaps you back. Yet somehow, anyway, you pass on through, and soon you're cruising on smoother waters. Some good news about these particular rapids: If you feel they're too much for you, you can walk around them. Some even better news: Those who wish can walk back and run them again. This evening, a few of us will go out on the town and see what Queenstown has to offer. With its adventure activities during the summer and world-class skiing in the winter, there’s a lot to look at and plenty of night clubs to visit. What an end to an exciting day!
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14: Biking, Hiking, Rock Climbing and More After two weeks in New Zealand, you'll have some ideas about how to spend your last day. There are plenty of choices.
Those who want excitement without sweating today can jet-boat within inches of jagged overhanging rocks on one of the famed Shotover Jet boats. These remarkable boats, powered by jet rather than propeller, can go through water a mere four inches deep, and the pilots take great delight in blasting full speed toward a looming boulder, then turning a full 180-degrees within a single boat length. Or take a calmer boat ride: the restored steamship TSS Earnslaw makes several trips across the lake each day. Pan for gold in nearby Arrowtown, once a thriving settlement, and the nearby ghost towns of Macetown and Bendigo. You could get there by bus -- but we recommend mountain biking. The dirt road to Macetown takes you across 40 fords, perfect for a hot day. Horseback riding is available on Doonholme Deer farm, where both new and experienced riders are welcomed -- though we recommend that beginners stick to a half-day ride. The trails take you into 800 acres of rolling countryside, with spectacular mountain views that seem to be ubiquitous in Queenstown.
Or, weather conditions permitting, take a day trip to Milford Sound. Rudyard Kipling described this deep fjord as "the eighth wonder of the world." A winding trip through dark forest takes you to the tip of the glacier-carved inlet, where you board a boat to ride past cascading waterfalls and Mitre Peak, rising a full mile high from the water. The boat draws so close to a thundering waterfall that you could fill a wineglass with the spray. In fact, one waterlogged guest has done exactly that. Southern fur seals eye us carefully as they sunbathe on a rock. Perhaps you thought we were exaggerating when we called Queenstown "the adventure capital of the Southern Hemisphere." But by now, it has earned the title. This evening, we'll come together and celebrate one last time as we end our two week vacation together at our closing dinner at one of Queenstown's finest restaurants.
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15: Departure Day The hardest thing about our trips is saying goodbye to a wonderful group of new friends. As we make our way home from Queenstown, however, there's one thing you can be sure of: active vacations like this one draw a special type of person. We depart knowing that many of us will see one another yet again.
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