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Discover a world of wildflowers, waterfalls, and glaciers

An Illustrated Itinerary of one of our many travel adventures for gay men, lesbians, and friends.

This information supplements our
shorter Overview of the trip.

Everyone in Switzerland seems to hike, and once you've experienced these mountains, you'll understand why. Our week-long holiday here brings new sights and panoramas every day. One day, hike with your new gay friends through a field of wildflowers, past a sturdy wooden hut 400 years old, to a tiny alpine hamlet. The next day, hike beside the waterfalls and cascades of a mountain river. And if you try the via ferrata, we can promise some adrenaline as well as pictureque scenery.

For this week of hiking in the alps of Switzerland, we're based in the lovely mountain village of Zermatt, just a few hours' travel from Geneva or Milan, yet a world apart. Each day, you can join a larger group on a hike, or head out independently. Most people find it enjoyable to stay with the main group some days, and to hike more independently, with one or two friends, a few times.

The schedule below relates a typical week. Our actual sequence of hikes may change based on weather and other conditions. And, of course, you always have the choice of trying a different itinerary, alone or with new friends.

1: Arrival day

Your adventure starts with the train ride as you travel up to mile-high Zermatt. The steep cog railway edges along a river valley, past thundering waterfalls, snow-covered peaks, and the onion-domed church in tiny St. Niklaus.

The track ends in Zermatt, a car-free village of just 4,000 year-round residents. Our apartments are a 10-minute walk if you're traveling light; or take a small electric taxi. We're staying in holiday apartments owned by one of the original families to settle Zermatt. You won't be living out of your suitcase in a hotel room: These apartments have a living room, kitchen, and many have spectacular views. (In addition to 2- and 3-bedroom apartments, we have some studio apartments also available for a slight surcharge.)

Early arrivals will enjoy exploring Zermatt. You'll share the streets with tourists just up for a day of mountain air, European hikers dressed in the traditional knickers, mountain climbers gearing up for an expedition, and the occasional herd of goats. At 6:00, we'll meet for a reception and orientation, followed by a traditional Swiss dinner.

A short after-dinner walk ascends one of the trails overlooking Zermatt. As the Milky Way and thousands of stars twinkle above, and you gaze down on the lights of our little village, you'll feel a bit of the magic that lies ahead this week.

2: Wildflowers

From the main street in downtown Zermatt, a narrow brick path suddenly turns right and heads up into the hills. Soon we're on a well-trod trail, passing old wooden houses with thick slate roofs, and a meadow full of buttercups. This is the meadow from which the town derived its name: "Zer Matt" was "The Meadow."

As you look north, you can see a tiny train working its way up a mountainside. That's the Gornergrat railway; later this week, we'll ride it to a distant peak. Any fears of getting lost on these trails will quickly dissipate as you learn to rely on the extensive signs.

It takes less than two hours to reach Zmutt, a tiny hamlet of a half-dozen homes and a cozy restaurant named "Edelweiss". Those looking for an easy day may choose to linger over hot soup, fresh bread, and cold beer at Edelweiss, then walk back to Zermatt.

After a bit of refreshment in Zmutt, others will continue onward. Save your appetites for a hearty picnic a bit later. We'll cross a narrow bridge over a deep river chasm, then head past a field of wildflowers to a ridge trail, the Matterhorn looming ever closer as we hike.

For those continuing beyond Zmutt, the day's destination is Schwarzsee, a small mountain lake at the base of the Matterhorn. Enjoy a well-earned apfelstrudel on the terrace of a small restaurant here. Those with extra energy can hike back to Zermatt, stopping en route at the "glacier gardens", where immense potholes were carved out by a glacier that once ended here. Many of us will probably hop in the nearby aerial tram for a fast and easy descent.

Back in Zermatt, the famous cemetery beckons us. Here are the graves of the four men who died in the first ascent, and dozens of other climbers, from all parts of the world, whose luck ended on the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks. "I chose to climb," declares the epitaph on one, an American who died at here at age seventeen.

Then, enjoy an hour in the Alpine Museum, devoted to the Zermatt region, and the mountain that dominates it. Here are artifacts from many of the Matterhorn's first climbers, including the broken rope that sent four members of the first ascent party hurtling to their deaths. A giant scale model of the Matterhorn shows the routes chosen by the earliest climbers..

And finally, the moment you've been waiting for: Our beer-tasting. This was originally a wine-tasting, but we decided after a few visits to Switzerland that the local beers were more deserving of our attention. Tasting a variety of brews, both dark and light, lets us appreciate what the range of beers that the Swiss offer, and will prepare us for the choices that face us in the evenings (and at a few mountain huts) ahead.

3: Mountain sheep and a glacial moraine

From Zermatt, we ride on a railroad tunneled under the rock, whisking us up almost half a vertical mile, to the alpine plateau of Sunnega. We hike past a mountain lake, reflecting the ever-present Matterhorn. A herd of sheep eye us carefully as we continue onward to Hotel Fluhalp, the rustic mountain hut used as a base for climbers heading toward higher peaks.

This afternoon's walk takes us along a distinctive feature. Over the centuries, the Findel glacier has eroded away a piece of the mountain beyond the Hotel Fluhalp. We walk up a grass-covered slope, and at the top find a sharp ridge. Below us lies rubble churned up by the glacier, then the glacier itself, moving far too slowly for the human eye to see, yet powerful enough to wear down mountains.

We can follow this ridge trail for over a mile. Occasionally remnants of a previous trail appear, then disappear off the edge; a new trail has been tracked after the old one crumbled away.

You can ride the underground railway back into Zermatt. But most will probably choose to hike back, along a path running through cool pine forests. Doing so brings another benefit: A stop at the delightful Paradies Restaurant, in a hamlet so tiny, the main street is little more than a widened trail. The last time we were there, we enjoyed omelets made with freshly-picked wild mushrooms.

4: Via Ferrata

One of Zermatt's great attractions for hikers is the enormous variety of terrain accessible to us. A rack (cog) railroad, an underground railroad, and two systems of cablecars each offer access to sights and experiences that we couldn't reach in a day hike from Zermatt.

Today we'll use one of those aerial systems to visit an icy world far removed from the green meadows of Zermatt. A two-stage gondola ride takes us to a mountain restaurant and ski center at Trockner Steg, with the Matterhorn perched just across from the restaurant terrace. This is a day you'll want your camera!

Now a large cablecar, traveling a path that seems more vertical than horizontal, carries us to a tunnel bored into the rock just below the summit of Klein Matterhorn. This is Europe's highest cablecar station, though it feels more like it belongs in a James Bond movie. (Indeed, "On Her Majesty's Secret Service" was filmed at another Swiss mountaintop complex.) Walk down the tunnel to an elevator shaft, and a moment later, you'll be on the very top of a snow-covered world. Feeling daring today? You may prefer to climb the steep path to the summit.

Here, a frosty 12,500 feet high on the Italian border, is an icy cross, and panoramic views of the Alps: from Mount Blanc in France all the way to Austria in the east. On nearby Breithorn, look for roped alpinists inching their way up an icy slope. Meanwhile, we'll rub shoulders with summer skiers on their way into Italy.

Remarkably, even as you're surrounded by snow and ice, you may feel no need to change from your hiking shorts as long as the bright alpine sun is shining.

Those feeling adventurous have an exciting afternoon option: A traverse of the polished rock, foaming whitewater, and high cliffs of the narrow Gorner Gorge. No special experience is needed for this, but you shouldn't be too fearful of heights. We stay clipped into a steel cable as we move along the canyon walls; this type of trail is known as a via ferrata in much of Europe. The adventure includes 4 rappels, and four crossings of the gorge: once on a rope swing, three times with Tyrolean traverses, sliding across the gorge on a cable.

The via ferrata is a popular type of outdoor adventure in the mountains of Austria, Switzerland, Italy, and southern France, but rarely seen in the U.S. The Gorner Gorge route is more complicated than a typical via ferrata, because of the rappels and Tyrolean traverses involved, so this is an optional activity on our trips, for which we hire skilled local guides.

Back in Zermatt, we may be interrupted by a few dozen hungry goats, herded along by a boy who looks like he'd be just as happy on a skateboard. These goats make a daily round trip from their home above Zermatt, to the pastures below the town.

5: Glaciers - and other options

Those who would like to discover the magical world of a mountain glacier are invited to join us for an optional glacier hike. From afar, a glacier simply looks like a big, two-dimensional sheet of ice. But once you're on it, you discover a world of deep-blue crevasses, serpentine rivers of sparkling water, and occasional holes that disappear deep into the ice.

Our glacier hike is a full-day adventure, as we hike across massive Gornergrat glacier, with 1000 feet of ice below us. The white silence is regularly punctuated by the gurgles, hiccoughs, and creaks of a glacier that is more alive than it looks.

Those looking for a break from hiking today will have plenty of other choices. Have you ever been paragliding? You can link up with an instructor-pilot right here, and take a tandem ride. Your instructor keeps you aloft; you simply enjoy the sensation of flying like a bird over the mountains and valleys.

Mountain bikes are strictly banned from most of the hiking trails here, a policy we support wholeheartedly. But several wonderful trails are designated for this exciting new sport. If you'd like to try it, just rent a bike in town, and take off.

As you've already seen, we're very close to Italy. Just across the border lies the Italian lake resort of Stresa, an easy day trip away. Tour the 18th-century villas on the world-famous Borromean Islands, then the grand palace and gardens of Isola Bella (Beautiful Island). Berne, the beautiful Swiss capital, is also within train distance.

Dedicated hikers may want to tackle a more challenging destination today. Our recommendation: Oberrothorn, the highest area peak that can be reached in a day of hiking, without technical climbing skills.

Tennis, swimming, horseback riding, are also available.

The hardest part of the day is picking a restaurant for dinner. The Weisshorn offers regional specialties; we especially recommend the gnocchi. Ristorante de Mario is known for Italian cuisine (Italy, after all, is just a few miles away). For those on a budget, or who just like to cook, our apartments have full kitchens, and a well-stocked grocery store is right in the middle of town.

6: A high mountain cog railroad

Take the highest open-air railroad in Europe, past the Riffelalp Hotel, to the Gornergrat Hotel and restaurant. At 10,100 feet, the hotel terrace offers striking views of the Gorner Glacier (Gornergletscher), a vast river of ice gliding through the valley below. And beyond it, the Matterhorn.

We'll share the terrace and lookouts with other tourists. Admire the mountain goats as they negotiate impossibly narrow trails on the cliffs below us. Watch for intrepid hikers venturing out on the glacier; if conditions are right, some of us may follow.

Then ride a small cablecar to Stockhorn, an adjacent peak blanketed in snow and ice, with just an occasional rock poking through the cover. A busy ski area in winter, this lonely peak is deserted in the summer, and we're likely to be the only ones there. We'll be treated to views of some of the grandest of the Alps. The massive Monte Rosa looms directly across from us; in other directions, we can look down on distant peaks. Our 1998 group decided to catch some rays (only to be caught by an equally surprised group of Japanese tourists).

We can return to Stockhorn in the cablecar. Adventurous souls may want to follow the cablecar's path on foot, along a narrow ridge dropping off to a glacier on one side.

Sausage and spaetzl at Gornergrat will re-energize you, as we plan the remainder of the afternoon. The train stops at three points along the return route. You can hike as much, or as little, of the trail back as you wish. The higher portion of the return path takes us past Riffelalp, a small, picturesque peak that Mark Twain once climbed, and is often used as a training ground for young alpinists.

Dinner tonight is at one of Zermatt's top restaurants. Here's a chance to try one of the regional specialties you've missed -- or one that's become a favorite.

7: Cascades and waterfalls

One of the most glorious hikes we save for the latter half of the week, when we're best acclimated. No cablecars today: We'll do all the climbing under our own power.

You can see how many wildflower names you've learned as we begin our hike. The bright violet of a cluster of Alpine Asters, and the deeper purple of the Trumpet Gentian. A patch of yellow Poppies and a baby-blue Bellflower.

First stop: Hot tea and a slice of lemon coffeecake await us at a small restaurant perched on a cliff, overlooking the entire valley.

We continue upward, following and criss-crossing Triftbach, a bubbly river that is regularly punctuated by waterfalls and cascades. This takes us to the Trift Hotel, a sturdy old Victorian building that served hikers a century ago, was abandoned to the elements, and has now been renovated.

We're now at the beginning of the Hohbalmen trail, one of the most spectacular hiking routes anywhere in the Alps.

After an hour of walking, we turn a corner and the Matterhorn stands ahead of us. We'll stop here, with magnificent mountain views on all sides, as we enjoy a picnic lunch.

Finally comes a well-earned descent. A series of switchbacks takes us past a high thin waterfall, right to the base of the Matterhorn. As we pause for a refreshment break, the Matterhorn provides an ever-changing diversion. On the left of the giant triangular rock face, pick out the route of the first party to ascend it, as we saw in the Alpine Museum. Over on the right there's a sudden cloud of snow -- an avalanche taking place even as we watch.

We never cease to be amazed at the number of small restaurants and cafes hidden in the mountains. Ahead is one run by a single elderly woman, who searches out the coldest beers for each of us. As we drink, we watch the marmots chasing about in the grass.

It's only an hour walk back to Zermatt. We pay for the beers and start walking. Ten minutes later, a spry figure strides past us -- the woman who served us in the cafe, heading home. Five minutes later, she has disappeared out of sight.

This is our last evening together. Some people head out to a restaurant. Traditionally, a group also gets together for a pot-luck. You can count on mouth-watering food, whichever choice you take!

8: Departure -- and the Glacier Express

Our week officially ends after breakfast; if you have early connections, you can rise and depart as early as you'd like. There's one final treat in store for those who have made advance reservations: A ride to St. Moritz on the Glacier Express. This train shows off Swiss engineering and Swiss mountains, as it meanders over alpine rivers and through mountain tunnels, with ever-changing panoramas unfolding through the picture windows of the cars. Our pre-trip newsletters make it easy to hook up with others who might enjoy this excursion with you.

If you've got extra holiday time to spend in Europe, we suggest you save it for after the trip, rather than before: Chances are, others from this week's adventure will welcome company as they travel and explore the culture and gay life in Geneva, Zurich, Berne, and other Swiss cities.

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