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Bike from volcanic lava tunnels to lush landscapes

An illustrated itinerary of one of our many travel adventures for gay men, lesbians, and friends.

This information supplements our
shorter Overview of North of the Moon.

Blastoff!

Iceland is a land of contrasts: Geologically, it's the youngest country in the world, yet it has the world's oldest parliament. Glaciers still mold the land, yet you can swim in naturally-heated rivers. Landscapes range from rocky moonscapes to lush pastures to small forests.

Our biking trip here provides a chance to experience many of these contrasts. We'll ride mountain bikes, well-equipped to handle everything from paved roads to lava fields, but this isn't mountain biking in the usual sense of zipping up and down mountains. Most of our route is over flat or gently rolling terrain, yet with enough hills to keep you challenged. Bikes are simply the way we get around. This is really a trip about discovery, and adventure, in a land unlike anything you've ever seen.

Most of the group will board a plane for Reykjavik the evening before the trip starts, departing from one of Icelandair's gateway cities, and wake up in a different world. You may meet other members of our group even before you board the plane. The rest of the group will gather at the airport outside Reykjavik, on arrival.

What should you expect? Quite a mix. With our emphasis on active vacations and the outdoors, our trips draw people who are energetic and outgoing, who enjoy interacting with life and with each other. We find that shared activities like biking are not only fun in themselves, but serve as great ice-breakers. You may arrive alone, but within a day, you'll be traveling with friends.

The majority of our cyclists will probably be traveling alone; there are usually several couples, as well. Single travelers don't need to pay a single supplement. We'll match you with a roommate if you'd like the double-occupancy rate.

1: Reykjavik

We arrive in Iceland early in the morning. First stop: The Blue Lagoon, a sprawling outdoor pool where you can immerse yourself in a seemingly endless pool, as steam fills the air. The water here is naturally warm, and naturally blue, from a heavy mineral content that's also touted for its therapeutic value.

Today we'll hop on bikes and explore Reykjavik, Iceland's capital and largest city. Reykjavik has no world-famous buildings or landmarks; rather, we enjoy it as a charming example of a city that is cosmopolitan yet not overwhelming, bustling but clean, with rivers and waterfront, parks and plazas.

A salmon river bubbles right through the city, and we follow a bike trail alongside the river for part of the day. Halldor, our guide, is a native Icelander, descended right from those Vikings, with an infectious love of his homeland. He points out the highlights as we walk through the outdoor Arbaer Museum, to which some of Iceland's oldest surviving homes have been relocated.

The harborside trail outside Reykjavik is adorned with sculptures and artwork, both modern and traditional, and we stop to admire one: A whale skeleton? Or a Viking ship?

Reykjavik has bars and clubs and cafes, of course, but much of the city's social life revolves around the open-air pool complexes, fed by naturally warm spring water. We've set aside part of the day for you to enjoy one of these pools if you wish, while others in the group may opt for a nap, or independent sight-seeing.

What about gay life in Iceland? It's here, but there's not as much of a separate gay culture of community as in some cities. Iceland, like its Scandinavian cousins, has in place both legal protections for gay men and lesbians, and a social attitude that whether you're gay or straight just isn't that big a deal. Several bars and clubs are identified as gay or mixed, and no doubt some of our group will find their way over, after our first dinner in Iceland.

2: Hot springs and horses

Reykjavik to Hella to Leirubakki (27 miles of biking)

We've selected a region known as the South Highlands for our biking days, because of its varied and dramatic landscapes. The van ride to the Highlands, along a winding road, offers the first of many spectacular panoramas. On a clear day, we'll have views of the world's youngest island: Surtsey, which rose up from the ocean floor in the morning November 15, 1963 in a huge volcanic eruption. We can also see the Vestman islands and the volcano that erupted in 1973.

We continue to the hot spring village of Hveragerdi, a town filled with greenhouses heated up with geothermal water. Here, we can wander amongst plants from the Amazon jungle, courtesy of the local hot springs.

Our actual biking tour starts in the region known as Hella. We bike along the Ranga River, then cross the lava fields of Mt. Hekla. Today's picnic lunch, served up by Halldor's wife Gerda, provides a sample of Icelandic foods: Robust cheeses, smoked fish, and an assortment of flavorful breads.

After lunch, we take an hour break from hiking to wade through the river in a remote valley, then walk through the trees to another river and cascading waterfall.

Today's destination: The wonderful horse farm Leirubakki, with an option to enjoy riding one of the beautiful Icelandic horses. These compact animals, purebred since the time of the Vikings, are known for their tolt, a fast yet smooth gait that no other horses in the world have mastered.

After dinner, relax with a hot jacuzzi and sauna. Yes, we're staying in mountain huts. But they're not primitive mountain huts!

3: Volcanoes and rivers

Leirubakki to Landmannalaugar (38 miles)

We're in volcano country. We begin today along the base of Burfell, a wide, squat volcano that last erupted 7500 years ago. Soon, however, we get to the foot of Mt. Hekla, Iceland's most active volcano. Heklas has erupted in 1946, 1971, 1980, 1981, 1990, and 1991, and 2000. On the higher passes here, we stop at an unusual sight: A layer of snow, topped by a layer of ash from the recent eruption, then another layer of snow.

En route to the valley of Domadalur, we'll cross several small rivers. Here in the highlands, there are no bridges. Most likely we can bike right across the rivers, but be prepared to wade!

Our picnic lunch comes just before the first of these streams. Lunch consists of an assortment of cheeses, meats, vegetables, and breads. For dessert, we get our first skyr a uniquely Icelandic dish that's reminiscent of a creamy, tangy yogurt -- but much better, we all agree.

After lunch, Halldor points out the best way to bike across: Start on the left, get two-thirds of the way over, but continuing directly to the other side plunks you in a hidden trough. Instead, turn right, go briefly upstream, then exit. One by one we give it a try. About half the group manages to keep their feet dry.

Tonight we'll stay in a mountain hut in the scenic region of Landmannalaugar. Here, we're in the midst of a huge volcanic region left from the ice age. The volcano erupted under the ice, creating the beautiful colored mineral known as rhyolite. Later eruptions have left moonlike structures of black basalt.

A naturally warm river nearby provides the evening's relaxation.

4: An amorous troll

This is a layover day, added after our first (year 2000) trip to Iceland. We only spent one night in Landmannalaugar that year, but our group loved the area so much, that we decided to add a day here.

Landmannalaugar sits within a giant volcanic crater, some two miles in diameter. Other volcanoes have erupted within this crater. Today we'll hike up the most beautiful of them, Brennisteinsalda. Much of the terrain is made up of rhyolite, a colorful igneous rock produced by the volcano. The trail winds through a 500-year-old lava flood of basalt, with shiny fragments of flintstone throughout. The colorful landscape is among the most photographed sights in Iceland, as broad swaths of green moss, black lava, orange rhyolite, and white snow stretch below a blue sky.

Eons ago, a troll walked up this same mountain, returning home after an amorous night on the town. Trolls cannot survive the sunlight, however. This one walked too slowly, and when the morning rays touched him, he turned to stone -- or so say the sagas. The Brennisteinsalda hiking trail passes the tall spire of basalt which, according to this saga, was once our lover-boy.

The afternoon offers further hiking and biking options. But only if you can tear yourself away from the hot river! A two-minute walk from our mountain hut, a geothermal stream pours into a cooler river. You pick the temperature you want, position yourself accordingly, and relax, as the cares of the world vanish.

5: Life on the moon

Landmannalaugar to Holaskogur (35 miles)

Jules Verne set his science-fiction novel, Journey to the Center of the Earth, at a crack in the earth right here in Iceland. Those who wish to follow his intrepid explorers will find many cracks today that still seem to go all the way to the center.

But the hiking here is equally spectacular, with ever-changing views. This morning, we'll have a guided hike through the rocky landscape of Landmannalaugar. After lunch, we bike to the beautiful volcanic crater "Ljotipollur" (which translates as "Ugly Puddle" -- Viking humor) and cross a black desert of lava ash. You'll have no trouble, here, understanding how this trip got its name!

We finish today's biking in Holaskogur, at a new mountain hut equipped with showers and kitchen, and what is said to be the coldest drinking water in Iceland. Halldor and Gerda have already been busy in the kitchen, and the smell of roast lamb fills the air as we walk in. They also know how to take care of vegetarians; everyone will fall asleep quite contented, tonight.

6: Geology and history

Holaskogur to Arnes (27 miles)

This morning we head up a mountain -- but not all the way, your thighs will be happy to hear -- for a look at Haifoss, the second-highest waterfall in Iceland.

Back down in the valley, we explore a unique place known as a Gjain (rift or gulf ). The gjain was carved out by a glacial waterfall. Its walls are covered with columnar basalt, and a crystal-clear river now runs through. The banks are covered with the beautiful plant Hvonn (angelica).

After the gjain we continue to Thjorsardalur, where a Viking farm was entombed in AD 1104 by ash from the volcano Hekla. The ruins were dug up in the 1930s by a team of Scandinavian and Icelandic archaeologists. The farm of Stong was particularly well preserved under the layers of white volcanic ash, and in 1974, the farm was reconstructed to provide a glimpse of what life must have been like for the early Viking settlers. Walls are constructed from thick layers of turf. The dairy room, a large lavatory, and long wooden sleeping benches are all on display.

We'll live more comfortably. At our guesthouse tonight we'll be next door to a hot jacuzzi and a new geothermal swimming pool.

7: The parting of continents

Arnes to Geysir to Reykjavik (35 miles of biking)

A few years back, some kooky Frenchman swam from Europe to America, albeit with considerable help from ocean currents and winds. We'll make the trip an easier way: We'll walk it.

First come two other spectacles. We start at the mighty Gullfoss (Golden Falls), a wide, cascading waterfall crashing into a deep chasm. Iceland is full of waterfalls, and we've already seen many. Arched by a rainbow, perpetually shrouded in mist, Gullfoss is the best-known of them all. A more distant overlook provides a view of the falls and the gorge below. A short trail allows the more adventuresome to walk right into the spray beside the falls.

Nearby are the hot springs and geysers. The celebrity here is Geysir, the original hot-water fountain from others got their generic name. Geysir is in retirement, however, and erupts less frequently than it once did. The best show is likely to come from Strokkur, which blows roughly every 10 minutes.

Our biking trip ends at lunch today, when we reach Gullfoss and the geysers. Then we continue, in the van that will take us back to Reykjavik, to the national park of Thingvellir, notable in two respects.

Thingvellir is the site of the Viking parliament, Althingi, and the park is rooted in Viking history.

Thingvellir is also the spot where the continental plates of America and Europe meet.

Politically, Iceland is part of Europe. Geologically, while most of Iceland lies on Europe's tectonic plate, the southwestern part and most of the population are on the American plate. Slowly, the two are inching apart. (Or centimetering apart, in the case of the European plate.) You can literally stand on a high cliff at the end of America and watch Europe recede.

Today we'll hike across that continental rift, enjoy the views from both sides, and stroll along the base of a cliff that represents, quite literally, the edge of America. Afterward, then ride back into Reykjavik, where a tasty seafood dinner awaits our whole group, and a gay disco awaits those who still have some energy!

8: Departure day

Those flying back to the U.S today will catch an afternoon flight. That leaves time in the morning for more sightseeing in Reykjavik. Shop for an Icelandic sweater, or visit the National Gallery, Natural History Museum, or the National Museum, for cultural and historic artifacts. Relax at the coffee shop. Or -- we've saved the best for last, of course -- did you know that Reykjavik is home of the world's only Phallological Museum? And it's right on the main street. This is, after all, the country that requires a nude shower (their emphasis) before you hop into a public swimming pool. And speaking of those pools: You may be tempted to take a last dip in the Blue Lagoon en route to the airport.

On the way home, look down on ice-covered Greenland, and wonder, as countless others have, about the irony of these two islands' names. We like the theory that says this was the work of the earliest spinmeisters: The Greenlanders were trying to sell housing lots and named their island accordingly. (Their descendants now sell real estate in Florida.) The Icelanders, on the other hand, knew they'd found a good thing and just wanted to keep discourage visitors.

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