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Hike in the mountains of Heidi, past sparkling lakes and green pastures

An illustrated itinerary of one of our many travel adventures for gay men, lesbians, and friends.

This information supplements our
shorter Overview of Grindelwald.

The Swiss Alps are among the world's top hiking destinations. Small mountain villages, well-marked trails, and varied landscapes make this a hikers' paradise. Combine that with our small, friendly group of gay men and lesbians, and you've got a dream vacation!

Three impressive Alpine peaks -- the Eiger, Jungfrau, and Monch -- rise abruptly from the river valley in the central Alps. These Oberland Giants, as they are known, form a constant backdrop to the shining green meadows, ensuring a panorama of every-changing scenery for our week of hiking here in the Swiss Alps.

1: Arrival day

The mountain scenery begins long before you reach Grindelwald. Switzerland's rail system is among the best in the world: Fast, comfortable, and efficient. As you pass the picturesque lakeside town of Thun, you may resolve to return to this pretty medieval town after your week of hiking.

Changing trains at Interlaken, you'll see other hikers and climbers, the former easily recognized by the hiking poles that nearly all Europeans seem to favor; the latter by the ice-axes strapped to their bulging backpacks. Grindelwald is the end of the line, and as you step out onto the town's lively main street after several hours on the train, one breath of mountain air will quickly revive you.

Our hiking trip begins with a 6:00 pm reception and orientation, followed by dinner, and time to meet a fun group of gay and lesbian hikers.

2: Above the glacier

This hiking week is designed to be enjoyable for both more- and less-experienced hikers. Today, you'll get several examples of the options that allow you to tailor the activities to the level you want.

Those rarin' to go can hike for the first hour. Others, who are feeling the altitude can ride the Pfingstegg lift to cover the first 1300 feet of altitude gain. (At 3500 feet, Grindelwald is well below the altitude of Denver, but steady uphill hiking will nonetheless be more tiring than at sea level.)

Those who are hiking up will cross Grindelwald's glacier river, then we begin our ascent. An abandoned marble quarry, once a source of jobs and income for Grindelwald, provides an unexpected diversion. Two glaciers end just outside Grindelwald. Today's hiking will take us along an unspoilt alpine trail above the icy crevasses of the "Lower Glacier." Soon we're hiking well above the glacier, with changing views of the icy mass below.

Lunch today is at a mountain restaurant that serves a surprisingly varied menu, given its remote location. Now, as will often happen during the week, you have a choice between an easier day (heading back now) or continuing on, following a path that sometimes gets much closer to the glacier itself, toward Schreckhorn, a 4078-meter peak. You won't get all the way to the summit, but hardier hikers might get to the Schreckhorn hut before turning back.

Our final stop is at Gletscherschlucht, the narrow gorge whose vertical walls were carved into the rock by the churning waters of the glacier. A narrow boardwalk, jutting out from the cliff face, gives us a close-up look at the sculpted canyon, as the water rushes below.

3: Reflections in a mountain lake

One of Grindelwald's appeals for hikers is that by making use of lifts, buses, and cog railroads, you can enjoy the valley's full range of scenery while making each day more challenging, or less so.

This morning most of us will probably choose to ride the lift up the north slopes, to a spot named "First". But a few energetic souls may elect to hike up, and meet us there.

From First we hike along an easy trail to the blue mountain lake known as the Bachalpsee. A magnificent green pasture filled with cows, bells tinkling, extends down toward the valley floor. On a calm day, the distant snow-capped peaks reflect in the lake's waters.

Then the trail thins out, twisting beside a spiny ridge, past moonlike rock formations. Descending past a cascading waterfall, we pass a lush patch of wildflowers, and easily count a dozen varieties within an arm's reach: Red, yellow, blue, purple, white, pink, lavender.

A late lunch is waiting at the mountain inn of Bussalp. Here, hikers again have a choice: To descend by foot, or on one of the ubiquitous yellow "Post Buses" that serves so many small Swiss hamlets such as this one.

4: Paragliding, and more

Paragliding over the trails that we hiked yesterday, you'll get a new perspective on the Grindelwald valley today. No paragliding experience is necessary: You'll fly tanden, with an experienced, licensed pilot.

For the remainder of the day, you've got several enticing options.

Take the train to nearby Thun, the delightful medieval city on a blue lake, dominated by an imposing castle. Toot across the lake on an old, renovated steamer, then hike along the shoreline.

Another easy day trip is to take a train or boat to Brienz, a charming Swiss town whose artisans are known for their violins and wood-carvings, then ride Switzerland's only surviving steam-powered cog railroad to the mile-and-a-half high Rothorn.

Or visit Interlaken if you want a fix of urban life and shopping.

And if you're itching to check out these mountains on a bike this would be a good day to rent a mountain bike, take it up a lift, then ride down to the village (verrrrrry carefully!).

5: The Top of Europe

Ride the Jungfrau cog rail train over deep ravines and through mountain tunnels carved inside the Eiger and Monch, to Europe's highest railroad station (3454 meters) on the massive Jungfrau mountain. From here you'll enjoy views of the Aletsch glacier, the longest in Europe. Roam the Ice Palace, carved into the blue glacier and decorated year-round with intricate ice sculptures; enjoy a run of summer skiing, or slide down the slopes on a snow disc.

If your legs need a rest today, ride the train back down to Grindelwald. Otherwise, you can hike part of the way back on the newly-opened Eiger trail, an alpine path that follows the base of this immense mountain. We're right under the Nordwand (North Wall) of the Eiger, a vertiginous cliff that has defeated many a mountaineer. We won't try any mountaineering ascents today, just a scenic hike, crossing the narrow, twisted gorges of glacier-fed streams, then winding through forest, until we emerge over (but on the other side of) the "Lower Glacier" that we saw on our first day of hiking.

6: A waterfall inside a mountain

After several days of hiking here in the Alps, you're feeling confident about the trails, about finding the way, and about estimating your abilities. Today's suggested itinerary gives you several opportunities to tailor activities to your liking.

We begin with a train ride to Lauterbrunnen, a picturesque village set in a cleft between two towering cliffs. Waterfalls spout out along either side, as we walk 45 minutes to Trummelbach Falls. Here, every second, glacier-fed streams pour up to 5,000 gallons of water down a series of ten waterfalls. Once hidden within a mountain, these cascades are now visible through a series of tunnels and stairways.

After lunch back in the village, we head up -- 930 vertical meters up, to be precise. You have a choice of riding an aerial tram up to Wengen, perched on a sunny plateau above us, or hiking up to it along a switchbacking path. From Wengen, you again have a choice of hiking or riding up to the next stop: Mannlichen. Some of us will want to hike one of these segments; few hikers will be up for ascending the entire 930 meters.

From Mannlichen, you can ride a mountain cablecar right back to Grindelwald, but we hope you won't: The high alpine trail over to Kleine Scheidegg is among everyone's favorites. Gently descending as it passes around cliffs and peaks, this trail offers an ever-changing panorama of the mountains: The Eiger, the Monch, the Jungfrau.

7: Marmot world, or a high plateau

The Swiss alpine peaks provide magnificent scenery this week, but we won't often stand on their summits. The Eiger and Monch are well beyond the reach of day hikers.

For those who want some serious hiking today, Schynige Plateau offers one glorious option, and the Schwarzhorn offers a more challenging day.

Beech trees give way to firs, then forest yields to meadow, as the narrow-gauge Schynige Platte Cog Railroad engine chugs up to the Schynige Plateau, a high ledge with a panoramic view of the imposing 15-kilometer-long Bernese Oberland wall.

This is an invigorating full-day of hiking. Portions of the trail follow a narrow ridge, dropping to views of the Eiger on the right, and to the placid blue waters of Lake Brienz on the left. A cup of hot tea at the improbable Weber Hut, held to the mountain by a steel cable, will refresh you, while accordion music and an inquisitive marmot provide entertainment.

The alpine wildflowers never cease to impress us, as well. Here, with a different exposure, we spot some new blossoms, each having found its niche in this high environment.

For those looking for a greater challenge, the jagged peak of Schwarzhorn, on a high crest to the north of Grindelwald, is accessible by several trails, some easier, some rougher. Hiking all the way there from Grindelwald makes for a full day, but the lift to First gives a head start to those who want it.

As we descend, the trail takes us along an area popular with marmots, and again we enjoy a break while watching these gregarious, bushy-tailed creatures.

8: Departure day

Our hiking week officially ends this morning. If you have early connections, you can depart as early as you'd like. Or you may want pack up, store your bags, then squeeze in one last hike.

If you've got extra vacation time to spend in Europe, we suggest you save it for after the trip, rather than before: chances are that others in the group will welcome company as they explore the culture and gay life in Geneva, Zurich, Berne, or other Swiss cities.

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