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Trip Overview Whitewater rivers, steaming geyser basins, and remote trails |
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An illustrated itinerary of one of our many travel adventures for gay men, lesbians, and friends. This information supplements our
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Blastoff!
The small island of Iceland offers enormous contrasts and variety: unspoiled landscapes, uncrowded parks and unique geology. Iceland has a small but friendly gay and lesbian community in the capital, but you'll find few signs of gay life outside Reykjavik. In true Scandinavian tradition, however, the people don't feel it's any big deal whether you're gay or straight, and by traveling with a gay and lesbian group, you're assured of a friendly, comfortable atmosphere. For most of us the adventure will begin the evening before the trip starts, with a late evening flight to Reykjavik. You may want to shop for adult beverages at the duty-free shop in the airport (if you like to have a drink, now and then) as alcohol is very expensive in Iceland. Look for the bright yellow Alyson Adventures luggage tags to spot others in our group, even before you board the plane. Who else will be here? You can count on quite a mix. This vacation is popular with travelers who range in age from late-twenties to early seventies, with a majority between 30 and 55. And they've come not just to see Iceland, but to be a part of the lively and friendly group that, as our many repeat customers will tell you, characterizes every Alyson Adventures trip. The majority of people will probably be traveling alone, but there are usually several couples as well. Single travelers don't need to pay a single supplement: we'll match you with a roommate if you'd like the double-occupancy rate.
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1: The Blue Lagoon and Reykjavik
Small islands have their advantages: It takes only minutes, after your plane touches down outside Reykjavik, before you've collected your baggage and have met the other gay men, lesbians -- and sometimes straight friends -- with whom you'll soon be discovering the fantastic variety of Iceland. First stop: The Blue Lagoon. No, don't look for naked boys and girls and a dolphin or two -- that's a different travel package and a different Blue Lagoon. But this sprawling outdoor pool on the Reykjanes Peninsula does offer a vivid reminder that we aren't in Kansas anymore! Immerse yourself in the waters, naturally heated and naturally blue from a heavy mineral content, as steam fills the cool morning air. And don't be deceived by the nearby power plant, which merely converts some of this heat into electrical energy for Reykjavik. The water here is naturally blue, from a heavy mineral content that's also touted for its therapeutic value. And the water is naturally heated, from 6,000 feet below you. In fact, it would be hard to find a water heater anywhere in Iceland. Don't feel guilty about taking a long shower every morning -- the hot water is piped right from the earth, and there's plenty more where it came from. This afternoon, we'll start our exploration of Iceland with a bike tour of Reykjavik, a small yet cosmopolitan city, criss-crossed with bicycle trails. Our stops include a salmon stream running right through town, a stylized Viking ship sculpture (or is it a jungle gym?) on the harbor, a giant relief map of Iceland that makes it easier to visualize the week's itinerary, and a loop through the shopping district. The last stop is the outdoor Arbaer Museum, where some of Iceland's oldest surviving homes have been relocated. Halldor, our guide, is a native Icelander and descendant of the Vikings, with an infectious love of his homeland. He points out the highlights as we walk through the grounds. The Arbaer Museum's buildings showcase an assortment of artifacts and household items from the past. Our favorite: Shoes made from fish, one of the three commodities of which Iceland has never had a shortage. (The other two: Ice, and hot water.)
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2: Biking on the Moon
A bus takes us out of Reykjavik for about 40 minutes. Then, we mount sturdy mountain bikes to ride through the rift valleys of the Reykjanes Peninsula on lightly traveled dirt tracks. Our scenic route takes us past landscapes that vary from lush vegetation to alien moonscapes. One of these remote fields, broken by lava spewed from the volcanoes, was used by the first Apollo astronauts to practice moonwalking. NASA chose the location because it offered earth's closest approximation of lunar conditions. Bluebells and other delicate wildflowers occasionally break the harsh rock. When you get off the bike to stretch your legs in the lavafields as you head down toward the coast, you'll come to crevasses that go halfway to China -- if you believe Jules Verne, whose explorers in Journey to the Center of the Earth begin their descent in Iceland. We'd rather not find out. The 15-mile bike ride will be just right for more experienced cyclists, but perhaps too much for those who haven't done much biking. That's why we have van support. After our bike ride we'll hop in a bus to ride to Hveragerdi where we'll spend four leisurely nights. Through the windows of our small guesthouse, we can watch steam puff out from the vents bordering the river that flows past the guesthouse.
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3: Hot Springs and Geysirs
This morning, we get upclose and personal with this unique landscape on an invigorating hike. Hveragerdi is home to a restless collection of bubbling springs. These include The Mankiller, a yawning hole of near-boiling water that was named in 1906 for just the reasons you must suspect, after a resident walked too close; and the Blue Hot Spring, named for equally obvious reasons. As for Garbage Hot Spring: This one deserves an explanation. For years, in an era before the word ecology had been coined, residents dumped their garbage into the simmering hole, where it remained out of sight and out of mind. In 1947, the earth rumbled, a new geyser blew out, and the garbage was redistributed to its original owners, albeit somewhat haphazardly. The townsfolk thereafter found new methods of waste disposal. After our hike, those who wish can visit these hot springs, then hike past heather and wildflowers and over moss-covered hillsides where you expect an elf to hop out from behind a toadstool at any time. Our destination: a remote and volcanically-warmed river that tempts us to hop right in. And so we do. Now we've got those naked boys and girls -- though we're still missing the dolphins.
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4: White Water, Shooting Water, Falling Water
For our rafting trip we've selected the Hvita river, safe enough for beginners yet with plenty of excitement (Hvita means "white river" in Icelandic) to thrill experienced whitewater rafters. There will be stretches of calm water amidst spectacular scenery and towering hexagonal pillars of basalt. Afterward we visit the beguiling geyser basin, home of "Geysir," the original spouter, whose name is now used generically for its cousins in Yellowstone and elsewhere. But we won't have the crowds of Yellowstone, as we walk amongst the steaming pools and geysers of this park. Nor do we have long to wait for a show: Stand in front of the geyser pool known as Strokkur, "The Churn", and soon you'll see the placid water rise and fall, as if panting hard. Then the surface swells like a giant blue egg emerging from the earth, and finally it spews up, in a performance repeated every five or ten minutes. Nearby, we take a short hike to Gullfoss, "Golden Falls", the most famous waterfall in Iceland. With a roar to compete with Niagara, yet none of the crowds that such a display would draw in North America or Europe, the wide glacial river cascades and churns into a deep crevasse, often accompanied by rainbows.
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5: The Woods of Thor
Today we'll discover more of Iceland's enchanting beauty. Depending on weather and other conditions, we may head for Thorsmork, "Thor's Woods." Named for the Viking god of thunder, this spectacular nature reserve in southern Iceland is also one of the country's most inaccessible locations. Or we could choose Thjorsardalur Gjain, with a twin waterfall, a partially restored Viking farm, and some wonderful hiking. As we pass through the nearby town of Selfoss, there may be time to enjoy the big heated pool complex that serves -- as such pools do in much of Iceland -- as the town's main social center. And then: watch for seals as we spend an hour or two kayaking on the coastal waters of Stokkseyri. One building here is perhaps of special interest to a gay and lesbian group. Puridarbud was named for Puridur Einarsdottir, a woman who dressed as a man and became a sea captain in the first half of the 19th century. She lived in a small home, much like this, made of stone and roofed with turf. Tonight's dinner is at a small, simple, seaside restaurant that has earned top reviews from some of the world's top restaurant critics. Sit back and enjoy as plate after plate, piled high with lobster tails, is carried out from the kitchen.
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6: Where the Continents Divide
Between Hveragerdi and Reykjavik lies Thingvallavatn, Iceland's largest lake. Thingvallavatn is fed by the river Oxara, and along the shores of the Oxara we find Iceland's most historic spot: Thingvellir (Parliament Plains). It was here at Thingvellir that the rowdy Vikings formed the world's oldest true parliament, in A.D. 930. It was at Thingvellir that Iceland voted to embrace Christianity in AD 1000, just as Leif Ericson was first setting foot on North American soil. Thingvellir's history isn't all pretty. A fissure here creates Drekkingarhylur (the drowning pool). In 16th-century Iceland, men sentenced to death for crimes such as theft were beheaded. Women convicted of adultery or perjury got a slower fate: they were stuffed into a bag and drowned in the hot waters of Drekkingarhylur. (Those guilty of what were considered lesser crimes, such as cold-blooded murder, could usually got off with a fine.) Unbeknownst to those early parliamentarians and bag-stuffers, Thingvellir is noteworthy in another respect. This long chasm is the spot where the continental plates of America and Europe meet -- or, more precisely, are coming apart. You can literally stand on a high cliff at the end of America and watch Europe recede. Hiking trails criss-cross the park. Alpine cinquefoils decorate tundra that barely conceals the lava fields below. Here, as in so many other parts of Iceland, we occasionally walk beside a crevice that plunges deep into the earth. Then, we head back to Reykjavik for our last two nights in Iceland.
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7: Free Day in Reykjavik
Explore Reykjavik, the northernmost capital city of Europe, and perhaps the most eclectic. It's a working harbor, and a cultural center; you can fish for salmon right here in town, or dine on salmon at a fine restaurant. (Likewise, and perhaps more discomfiting to some: You can see puffins at the zoo, or eat them at a fine restaurant.) It's easy to fill a whole day strolling the streets, plazas, and waterfront of Reykjavik. While many imported items are expensive, travelers with a yen for shopping can find several bargains, most notably the strikingly-patterned wool sweaters. We've already enjoyed one of the outdoor, naturally-heated pool complexes that are a mainstay of Icelandic social life. Reykjavik has several such pools, and they provide another tempting way to relax. Whale-watching trips are another option and returning to the countryside for a horseback ride is another choice. Hop onto a handsome palomino, a purebred descendant of the horses that arrived with the Vikings. This is the only horse in the world able to achieve the remarkably smooth, yet fast, 5th gait known as the tolt. Tonight, our last evening together, a tasty seafood dinner awaits our whole group. As always, there are alternatives for vegetarians and those with special dietary requirements. Then, Reykjavik's gay disco awaits those who still have some energy!
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8: Departure day
If you're returning to North America, your flight is probably scheduled for mid-afternoon, so you still have a half day for shopping, the pool, or other activities you may have missed. And then, we're off to the airport. The hardest thing about our trips is saying goodbye to a wonderful group of new friends, and the magic of Iceland. But you've seen parts of Iceland that most travelers miss; you've interacted with the country and its people in ways that give you an extra appreciation for it. We'll bet you've made some new friends. Thank you for joining us -- and we hope to see you again!
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